Beta Tester, please post your comments and Pics

[H22]

Wow, what a neet little controller.

I was kinda on the fence as to order one up right now, but seeing the size of this thing has me intregued.
Just looking at the picks of it by itself I was assumimng it was roughly the same size as my two ( P.O.S.  never worked  overpriced  crap units from a place down in austrailia otherwize known as Turd Edge.. ) .

But looking at that small pic with your hand, it looks much smaller than I had thought.

Could you post more pics of it in your hand or with a credit card for size ref ?

using 1 or 2 of those on a motorcycle would be do-able if they are small enough.

Joe

[admin]

Size is 14 x 6 x 3 cm. It is about the same size as the TE controller.

The TE controller is tricky to solder, especially the sensor connector, but there is less soldering involved than SLC DIY. Also there is an error on the TE PCB which makes the serial comms not work unless you modify the unit with a jumper wire.

[H22]

Size is 14 x 6 x 3 cm. It is about the same size as the TE controller.

The TE controller is tricky to solder, especially the sensor connector, but there is less soldering involved than SLC DIY. Also there is an error on the TE PCB which makes the serial comms not work unless you modify the unit with a jumper wire.

Hunh, looks smaller in the pics.
I am aware of the TE board flaw, my problem was a heater circuit code would flash. updated firmware and tried a new sensor, nothing worked. then I bought a JAW for a fraction of the price and it worked fine.
Still miffed about it though, think all told I am into both units over $500.00. yea, I could send them back, and pay to have them "fixed" or just keep using what works.

[decathect]

U can use rubbing alcohol to get rid of the flux, the purer the better.

The bottom segment on the LED is segment "D", the micro pin name on the schematic is "LED_D_MCU" (Pin 13)

Also double check to make sure you trimmed the leads of the LED after you soldered them, if they are not trimmed it will touch the headers pins underneath.

Alan, I finally got around to de-fluxing and inspecting hte pins. They all appear to be good now, but I still have the same problem. Other suggestions?

[admin]

U can use rubbing alcohol to get rid of the flux, the purer the better.

The bottom segment on the LED is segment "D", the micro pin name on the schematic is "LED_D_MCU" (Pin 13)

Also double check to make sure you trimmed the leads of the LED after you soldered them, if they are not trimmed it will touch the headers pins underneath.

Alan, I finally got around to de-fluxing and inspecting hte pins. They all appear to be good now, but I still have the same problem. Other suggestions?

I have had instances of the one of the segments on the display just not work. It might just be the LED is bad.

This is the pin info for the LEd display, http://www.futurlec.com/LED/7FR5641AS.shtml . Measure the anode of the D segment, Pin 2 on the LED, see if you get a voltage reading. If the voltage is 1v or higher, then the LED is getting voltage but the Segment LED is bad. If you are not getting voltage readings then there is a connectivity issue somewhere.

I will send you out a new display LED once you confirm it is bad.

[decathect]

How do I tell which one is pin 2?

[admin]

The bottom left (first digit) is pin 1.

[decathect]

Alan, I believe I have a bad display then. Can you send me a new one?

[admin]

Hi,

Please pm me you full address and I will send one out.

[decathect]

I believe I PM'ed you... haven't heard back.

[admin]

Will send out the LEd tommorow

[delcowizzid]

video of car I tuned with my slc diy beta unit http://14point7.com/forum/index.php?topic=832.0